Milos Day 2

view outside our window

We needed to rent a car because the island is too big for an ATV. We walked over to Giorgos Rent a Car. It was a long walk and when Giorgos asked us where we were staying he could not believe we walked all the way to him because he has a pick up service. We didn't think to ask our hotel and besides that's the way we roll when traveling. We have a fierce independent spirit but sometimes it makes our lives a little harder than they need to be!

walking through Adamas

He saw on Ken's license our old Astoria address and he said he had been there and asked if Uncle George's restaurant was still open. He gave us a map of the island and recommendations. The island can be divided in half - one side is more inhabited with paved roads and the other is sparsely populated with mostly dirt roads.

are we in Montana?

Off to the beach! The roads were very quiet. The first beach we
went to was Palochori, the "party beach" of Milos. We were the only people there except for a man in a speedo a half mile away.

is this beach big enough for both of us?




the party beach of Milos in October

The cafes and bars were of course closed for the season. We found lounge chairs and laid out on a pavilion. The sea was rough today yet warmer than yesterday. This beach was a bit rocky and surrounded by beautifully colored cliffs. After a couple of hours and when our bathing suits were dry, we packed up and headed for Firiplaka, another beach further down the coast but unfortunately without a direct way to drive so we had to back track quite a bit.

Firiplaka beach




the parking lot

When we arrived there were 2 other cars parked there - what a crowd! We thought this beach was the most dramatic setting of all our vacation. Tall cliffs of colored rock - oranges, reds, yellow - hugging a small sandy beach. Very wild and beautiful. There was a family of nudists there but no one else around.

me on Firiplaka beach with the nudists, now clothed

Ken finding a place to picnic

the picnic's cheese because every picnic needs one

smiling after lunch

The next beach was called Provatas. It was long and sandy with few rocks. There was not one other soul there with us. The surf was a bit rough and it was exhilarating to ride the waves. The water was warmer, too. We commandeered the porch of a small house and hung out for a bit.

a place to escape the sun

beautiful Provatas beach

We took a long drive across the less populated part of the island. The roads didn't stay paved for long. It was a bit treacherous in the compact car at times but Ken is really excellent driving a manual car. Large rocks and the occasional goat would block the road. We saw not one other car or person.

driving on dirt roads

The next destination was Triades which is a series of 3 beaches. We saw 2 beaches but couldn't find the way down to the third. There are no marked paths. There were none for any of the beaches - it is a wild, natural landscape.

one of the three beaches at Triades




the other beach but we cold not find the third

We felt as if we were on a deserted island. There was absolutely nothing man made as far as the eye could see. Not even a garbage can. There were no paths connecting the beaches. We walked over hills of rocks and brush to get from one to the other. The wind was picking up now and the waves were very rough. We went in the water but it was difficult to keep my head above the surf. Ken had a much better time with it. We had about another two hours of daylight so we decided it was time to start the long drive back.

the drive back to Adamas




goats x-ing




sunset with Plaka in the background




beautiful warm light on the hills as taken from the car

The weather was getting very windy and I had read that the weather this time of year be rough and ferries and flights are frequently canceled. We stopped along the road to Adamas and took pictures of the bay with the village. A guy was windsurfing.

evening watersports

the calm before the storm

Dinner tonight was at a mom and pop place in town. We ordered 4 mezés but only 3 came and that was good because our eyes were bigger than our stomachs tonight. We got Milos traditional cheese pies, fried pumpkin, and small fried fish.

traditional Milos cheese pies and small fried fishes

The cheese in the pies was very strong and stinky. They weren't filled and oozing, but hollow with the melted cheese coating the inside cavity. Unfortunately, the English translation was a bit off on the menu and what we thought would be pumpkin turned out to be zucchini.

simple zucchini

We wanted a sweet after and the bakery was closed so we got Magnum bars and sat on a bench by the ferry port. The wind was really howling furiously at this point and the sea was splashing up onto the pier in 6 foot waves.

The windows of our room had wooden shutters that we had trouble fastening and they banged and squeaked and kept us awake. The first half of the night was fiercely windy and then the rains came. After a few drowsy attempts, we got the shutters fastened properly and were able to get to sleep.