It was a rough night's sleep. In the wee hours of the morning the rain started and it was torrential. We laid in bed till 11:00 and we had to turn the maid away for the day. Eventually the storm left the island and we had a cloudy and wind swept afternoon.
We went to the site of the ancient city of Milos which includes a theater and catacombs. After parking in Tripiti we followed a trail to the archaeological site.
Tripiti
ancient sites this way
Along the trail was the place a farmer unearthed the Venus de Milo in 1820. There was a sign on the road and then a few steps down to the exact spot, commemorated with a plaque in several languages.
where the Venus de Milo was found, now displayed in the Louvre
path to the theater
The path continued around the side of a hill. Around the bend appeared the ancient theater, in a dramatic location just perched on a cliff. The actors would performed with the blue backdrop of the Aegean.
the dirt path to the theater and catacombs
the area was roped off
marble detail
striking a pose
marble detail
striking a pose
Further up the path were steps down to the first century early Christian catacombs. There was a sign on a gate that said only groups of 10 or more are permitted entrance and besides we missed the opening hours. We went to the admission booth anyway because there were people inside. One came out and said in broken English that she is a security guard, not a tour guide but she would take us inside the catacombs and tell us a little about them. She took us down the stairs and started to explain the layout and the grave system. Just then another couple arrived. We did the "tour" together.
the now body-less catacombs
This was the meeting place and burial site of Christians in the first century AD. They worshipped here in secrecy when Christians were persecuted and they buried an estimated 2000 dead over the centuries on this remote cliffside. It was just renovated and re-opened to the public this year. There are 2 rooms that you can enter as the third is closed. While we were in the catacombs, we could see water trickling in the corners and hear rain. When we went to the exit, it was pouring. We made a run for a small cave Ken remembered passing on the walk. We ducked in there and it was an extension of the catacombs not "open" to the public.
the cave
Shortly after we ran inside, the other couple followed. We struck up conversation with them. They were our age, Julian and Ester, from Berlin, and also staying in Adamas so we made plans to meet up later in the evening. The rain started to let up so we made a plan for 9pm and went separate ways.
We went to the Archaeological Museum because the rain started up again. The highlight is a replica of the Venus de Milo, some Cycladic figurines, and other finds from the island like pottery and classical sculpture. We were the only visitors and staff were smoking in a back office which can't be good for the 2500 year old artifacts.
The rain stopped and the sky was dramatic so we decided to go up to Kastro village above Plaka for a 360 panorama. It was a 20 minute climb up stone steps to the site where a Venetian castle used to stand, now a church. Many of the houses in the village are in ruins and it is sparsely populated. Some are being restored.
walking up to Kastro
elegant door knocker
playful decoration
perched church
almost at the top!
You can see the type of path it was from the smidgen you see in Ken's picture. The payoff was unbelieveable! It was beautiful. You can see the whole island and others in the distance.
playful decoration
perched church
almost at the top!
the Kastro, now a church, closed of course
windy panorama
We were a long time from dusk and the sky was still overcast so we made a plan to come back for a sunset on another evening. We stopped for Greek coffees in a funky cafe/taverna full of cats and a vintage jukebox.
cat
caffeine
So we then drove to one of the typical fishing villages of the island called Firopotamos. There were a few of these villages with traditional homes called syrmata.
the approach to Firopotamos
These small houses along the shore are used to store fishing boats in the winter on the ground floor and the living quarters are in a room above. They were used by fishermen to sleep after a night of fishing so they didn't have to travel home in the dark. Today, some are rented out to tourists.
its Julian and Ester!
colorful doors of the boat "garages"
the Van Gogh chair
the Van Gogh chair
grounded for the winter
The sky was clearing up so we decided to take a drive to Sarakiniko a beach famous for its pumice stone rock formations that have a lunar quality to them. The light was changing to golden as it was 4:00 so we took pictures, a lot of them with Ken:
Ken climbing across the rocks
Ken on a stone throne
Ken on a cliff
Ken
Ken on a stone throne
Ken on a cliff
Ken
The landscape was unusual and an adventure to navigate. There is no infrastructure or services at this area. During the tourist season people picnic here and cliff dive. Adding to the eerie atmosphere is a shipwreck not far from the shore, and especially the sound of it, whining and heaving with the power of the waves.
shipwreck and our shadows
rock sculptures
there I am
rough pumice stone
rock sculptures
there I am
rough pumice stone
By this time we were utterly exhausted and drove back to Adamas. The seas were still a bit choppy but the wind was dying down. The storm has passed and the sun was just about to set. We stopped to pick up gyros and ate them in our room.
At 9:00 we met Julian and Ester at the village bus stop. We went to a cafe/bar and had an overpriced drink. I ordered a white wine and got this:
They were blaring music and we could not talk and hear each other. So we went to a taverna next door called Flisvos. Ken and I shared a grilled octopus which was inedible and extremely tough and dry. This was our last time ordering it because we have been let down every time. In Astoria, it is always soft and tender and juicy - we expected it to be even better in Greece.
Anyway, we had a fun time out with them and there were emails exchanged because Ken will be in Berlin with the guys from NYC in November. Turns out Julian owns a bar, so there will definitely be a meeting up.
a rare vintage
They were blaring music and we could not talk and hear each other. So we went to a taverna next door called Flisvos. Ken and I shared a grilled octopus which was inedible and extremely tough and dry. This was our last time ordering it because we have been let down every time. In Astoria, it is always soft and tender and juicy - we expected it to be even better in Greece.
don't get the grilled octopus
Anyway, we had a fun time out with them and there were emails exchanged because Ken will be in Berlin with the guys from NYC in November. Turns out Julian owns a bar, so there will definitely be a meeting up.