Sifnos Day 3

the little engine that could

We realized we were crazy for walking as much as we did yesterday so we rented an ATV. It took 5 minutes for Ken to learn how to use it.

I think we were within the driving age

safety first!

No one else walks here so yesterday we must have looked utterly nuts trudging along at the side of the roads. The buggy had trouble getting up steep hills and a couple of times I had to jump off and meet Ken at the peak. We never drove scooters or Vespas before and so this seemed like the perfect grounded 4-wheel compromise, which it was. It was so much fun to ride!

Today is a beach-hopping day. I haven't been to a beach to lay out and go into the water in 20 years. I slathered my lily white skin with SPF 50 and off we went to the largest beach on the island, Platys Gialos.

my first beach experience in decades - not too shabby

There were only 3 other people there and one taverna open. We snagged a couple of lounge chairs and an umbrella. The water was cold at first but then felt great - crystal clear and shallow for 50 steps out. It was amazing. Ken is a great swimmer! And bronzes, not burns like his wife.

We had lunch just a few steps away from where we were laying out. We ordered a Sifnian specialty of stewed chickpeas called Revithia se sifniotiko tsoukali. There's even a traditional terracotta pot designed specially to cook this dish which is baked in the oven.

melt in your mouth chickpeas

a generous dollup of mizithra and crusty bread

crispy calamari

We also had a mizithra cheese which is from goat milk but mild enough for Ken to enjoy (he doesn't like goat cheese) and fried calamari. After lunch we packed up and headed toward Vathi Bay.

on the road

The landscape was brown and dark green, rough and rocky with dry brush. There were terraced slopes with stone walls keeping in herd animals, white houses and chapels dotting the hills.

typical countryside

next stop Vathi

Vathi is supposedly it is the ritziest village on the island. We almost had the beach to ourselves. It was small and very shallow in a natural bay speckled with fishing boats.

view from the towel




the small beach at Vathi all to ourselves




Taxiarches Church on the beach

After a swim and some sun time we were ready to head back but not before we went on a search for ice cream. All the shops were closed but one, which had none. A dog was laying on the steps, lazily looking out to the sea.

no ice cream here

As there was no ice cream in town, not even a Magnum bar. We opted for the next best thing, frappés, in the end a much better choice than ice cream. We drank them on the beach and then
hit the road.

one last look before leaving

goodbye Vathi

By the time we arrived in Kamares, bright blue skies changed to beautiful sunset light. Turquoise, fiery oranges, reds, and bright yellows met the bright blue reflection of the sea.

the evening ferry arrives

We sat on our terrace and read Greek myths before the sun completely set. We walked to the other side of the bay to explore and all we found were hotels and restaurants closed for the season.

view of Kamares from the other side of the bay




typical Sifnian decorative terracotta ornament on the roof

Before dinner we had a drink in the village's only bar, The Old Captain's Bar and had refreshing, overpriced ouzo. There were a couple of young women on laptops drinking wine. They knew the owner/bartender. Aside from them, we were the only customers.

cheers!

We decided we should eat once at every restaurant on the strip so tonight we tried another one and it was great! The very friendly waitress/chef's wife laid out the Sifnos paper map table covering out and said "Sifnos, very beautiful, yes?"

blurry picture of the paper table cover




the taverna locals

A table of about 12 Northern Europeans with kids running rampant was demanding of her time but it didn't show at all. The service was excellent and with a smile. The food was delicious. And here comes the bad food photography...

ugly but scrumptious eggplant slow cooked in olive oil




tender octopus salad




salad with soft cheese

This was unintentionally the second time we had mizithra today. We wouldn't have ordered it again but the menu was vague about the type of cheese on the salad, only that it was local. There was also boiled greens with garlic sauce on the side.

boiled green beans, unfortunately
the yummy garlic sauce didn't make the shot

And funnily we noticed the Dutch couple dining at the same place. At a table by the front door there was a small group of swarthy men laughing and drinking. One was the stereotypical Greek fisherman with a cap and mustache. They were a bit raucous and I could tell they were poking fun at the tall, gargantuan Nordic women at the party table.

local fisherman yucking it up