Thessaloniki Day 3

Our last full day in Greece. It has been an incredible vacation. After breakfast, we passed through the ancient Roman Agora and theater ruins.

free and open to the public

Then over to the Bey Hamman Turkish baths, built in 1444 and used until 1968! An art exhibit was being installed so it wasn't the best time to visit and parts were closed off so we peeked in and left. The sky was clearer so today was a good day to get a vista of the city. We took a bus up to the area of the old city or upper town, Ano Poli. The bus dropped us off right under one of the arches of the old city wall.

fresh off the bus and at the city's old Byzantine walls

We first went to the 14th century Monastery of the Vlatades. On the grounds was a large cage with peacocks.

a flock of peacocks

the church was closed but the gift shop open

The chapel/church was unfortunately closed and we couldn't see its famous icons. At the far end of the grounds was a small panorama of the city below. We knew there would be a better one at the old Byzantine walls, so we continued to walk upwards, following the wall. We made it to the top tower and there was a bus of French tourists that just unloaded onto the small souvenir shop and public toilet, which is where I was headed.

remnants of the Byzantine stronghold

visibility not great yet apparently I needed sunglasses




woman finding rest

One of the striking things about this city is the juxtaposition of the old and new. Here we were standing on the ancient fortifications of the city with castle ruins, and your eyes can follow that wall all the way down, cutting through the hillside, to the modern city below.

the path of the wall cuts through the city to the gulf

We weaved our way down the old town, Ano Poli. Good thing for us the walk was downhill because the streets were very steep. It was quiet and had an old neighborhood atmosphere. Here and there were cafes and everywhere there were cats. We turned the corner at one street and a doberman, thank God on a short chain, jumped up on a wall from its resting place and startled the bejeezus out of us. A man getting into his car got a good laugh at us.

all bark

Ravenous, we stopped in a supermarket to get snacks. It is a good way to keep down costs, especially on an 18 day vacation. We ate in a small square on a bench.

We passed another Byzantine church, Agios Nikolaos Orphantos dating from 1310. There was a woman attendant who let us inside. It is a small church with timbered roof. There was a wooded area around it and we took some pictures. We saw tortoises all over the place.

the humble Agios Nikolaos

slow and steady

We walked a loooong time, all the way back down through the university area to the White Tower. The sky was clearing up.

elegant Thessaloniki

the promenade

A friend in New York told us about a suburb outside the city called Panorama in the mountains that has a spectacular views. We took the bus and missed the stop so we went to the last stop to turn around but at that point we were so tired we just wanted to rest at home so we headed back. Oh well, the 90 minute round trip bus ride provided a much needed rest.

end of the line

the return trip

We had a pastry attack and got these incredible things, I don't know what they are called. Picture a baklava had a lovechild with an eclair. We ate them on our terrace.

oh man

After a rest it was time to eat. We knew where we wanted to go, Mpit Bazaar in Prosfigikis Agoras Square. It in an alley loaded with ouzeries near the Modiano. The energy in the street gradually increased over dinner. Tables were continuously getting filled, most with large parties. We got a table outside under a heat lamp and had a great last meal in Thessaloniki. We had traditional Cretan rusk toast with soft cheese called Dakos, fave bean puree, mussels saganaki, and these delicious traditional croquettes from Santorini. They had baby sundried tomatoes in them.

Ken gets a second wind soon after

I'm hungry! and happy!




smooth fava bean puree




mussels saganaki




"dakos" - Cretan rusk toast with soft cheese





fritters with sundried tomatoes and onions

The restaurant experience was fantastic with an unfortunate downside. There are Roma gypsy children that are sent into the throngs of diners asking for money. They are relentless and we saw the same children more than once come to the tables. This is a loud, crowded alley so the kids slip in and out easily. The waiters shooed them away when seen. Anyway, there was a girl about 9, who was doing the rounds and when she came to us we said we do not understand Greek and attempted to ignore her. She then went over to the bowl of empty mussel shells, picked one up, frowned it was empty, and proceeded to wipe her fingers on my shoulder. I was floored. It was a distressing experience.

Prosfigikis Agoras Square at 11pm

By the time we finished dinner the square was absolutely packed with people. Just on the other side was a small street and a bar called Carlo Gesualdo Music Bar. One side of the alley was the DJ and small dance floor and the other was the bar. We sat at the bar and had a drink. The music was new wave and goth. It was fun to spend a little time there. At midnight, we were exhausted and their night wasn't even started!!!

We walked back through streets crowded with young people spilling in groups outside bars and tables with old guys playing cards and backgammon. Another instance of the old alongside the new in Thessaloniki.